When I left the account of our journey we had just started from Charges. Our boat was a flat one about 25 feet long and 8 feet wide at the widest part; so full of baggage as to leave rather narrow quarters for our company and the crew. The crew was composed of the Captain, the rower and four stout rowers. It rained some when we started, but soon cleared up, and prospects for fair weather were good. We made ourselves as comfortable as possible and kept steadily but slowly on our way. For miles we could see no bank to the river. The foliage of trees growing near the bank and so thickly set, completely concealed the river banks. We were passing through a region of eternal summer. I could learn of only one tree that ever sheds its foliage. We saw the most beautiful trees, fruit and flowers. Some were familiar to us. But the most of them we could only admire without knowing what they were. Perhaps mother would recognize among the flowers the "Dusty Miller Lily." We could see for almost the entire day nothing but immense forests of various kinds of trees and vines blending their foliage and forming the most delightful prospect I ever saw. Fruits were abundant; but we dared not touch or handle it, lest it might bring on disease. We drank the river water which was very thick; but sweet, though very warm. We however made it quite palatable by using lemons, cold tea, sugar, etc. The heat being intense caused great thirst and we had to drink perhaps ten times as much as we would at home. About I o'clock it commenced raining. No that ain't it, pouring expresses it better. Then a rush for our India rubber garments. And oh didn't it rain! Why, you have no idea of rain at home. We found it impossible to proceed, so we fastened the boat to overhanging branches, and commenced bailing out. When going up the river in these rains, one hand has to be employed in bailing most of the time. After the rain was over, we started again. Our four men rowed hard all day and just at the edge of evening we arrived at Gettoon, about 10 miles from Charges.. We found a place to lodge; our carpet bags, provision baskets, etc., were taken out, and we were preparing to make ourselves as comfortable as possible. Just then the Captain and owner of the boat came and told us that they were very sorry that they had undertaken to ascend the river. It was impossible to go on farther. They would refund the money we had paid them and would take us back to Charges early the next morning. This made us open our eyes wider than ever before, and we were about to insist that they should go on with us. Just then we heard voices and on looking down the bank we saw a boat the mate to ours and owned by the same man coming down the river. They landed not far from us. From them we learned that they started from Charges the day before us i.e. Tuesday. After a hard days work they reached Gettoon, stopped on Tuesday night. Wednesday morning very early they left Gettoon, rowed hard the greatest part of the day and found they had made only seven miles. They then held a council of war when they determined that the idea of going ahead was preposterous. They turned about and reached Gettoon as before stated, wearied, sad and disconsolate. Early on Thursday morning we concluded that it was unnecessary for the ladies of our company to return and that one of the men should remain as their protector. It was accordingly determined that I should remain with them. Mr. McMakin and Mr. Grenell returned to Charges to get boat to take us along. We expected them back the same evening; but we saw nothing of them again until Friday night at eleven o ' clock. Leaving them on their way to Charges I will give you some account of Gettoon and our situation there. Gettoon is quite a considerable town. There is only one American settled there who keeps what is called the American House. He is a young, enterprising and accommodating man from Indiana, and has more courage than I have thus to trust himself alone wholly in the power of the natives in their present hatred against Americans. The American House is unlike the public houses in Charges. It has neither board on the sides nor ends. Perpendicular poles are stuck in the ground a few feet distant, on the top of these are rough boards; laid side by side, which make the sleeping room; and over this canvass is thrown to protect the room from rain. There were no beds, cots, nor anything of the kind; but rags thrown on the boards (the soft side of course) constituted the best bed that could be formed. Having Ladies in our company we had superior accommodation. Here is a very imperfect picture of the native rancho which we occupied. And we had it all to ourselves. It was not far from 10 feet square. The floor was only the well-trodden earth. Four large poles sunk a few inches in the earth were the corner stones of the massive building. To these poles rough split rails were tied about six inches apart on the average. They were not regular however for in some places an ordinary sized pig could come through and in several instances did come through and ran away with some of our provisions. This was the first story of the rancho. You will readily perceive that it was not airtight. We could see and be seen from any quarter. Then Mr. McMakin accidentally leaned against one end of the building thinking it strong enough to support him. But it gave way and he fell carrying the whole broadside with him. Now we will go upstairs if you please. Our stairs were not carpeted. They were in the rough and consisted of a pole about eight inches in diameter with notches sawed in it at convenient distances apart. You would have laughed could you have seen us going upstairs that night. Such a getting upstairs you never saw. But we soon got used to it. Before we retired I went up to make discoveries. Oh dear what a place. The palm leaves which covered the walls were full of spiders; not such as you have at home, but tropical spiders; big as --- I won't say what as you may not believe me. But they are big enough. Then on the floor which was made of a kind of bamboo and so old that we had to step lightly or go through, were innumerable bugs about three inches long. Then cockroaches by the peck, bugs, spiders, ants of all sorts and sires constituted the inhabitants of that room we were to occupy. I went below, sick at heart and told the company that those who chose might sleep upstairs but I could not nor would not. Lydia however was weary and needed sleep, but would not go upstairs without me, so for her sake I consented to pass the night with the bugs. After having hung up our provisions, we went up the pole. Luckily for us the pole was not greased. After laying down we put our handkerchiefs over our faces, that when the spiders dropped down they should not fall into our eyes and mouths. But what a night was that! Those bugs crawling over us! I cannot longer think of it. As soon as we left the lower room, it was taken possession of by about thirty pigs which laid close to the house on every side by day, and occupied the parlour by night all the time we remained at Gettoon. The next day we were alone the three ladies and myself. It was a long day. We were visited by numbers of natives, who came and gazed at us and then went away. We could not converse with them but by signs could make them understand a few things. Miss Tuck is a maiden lady and a little too nice to cross the Isthmus comfortably. Her fine feelings were frequently shocked by the nude statuary which everywhere presented itself to view. In the afternoon I borrowed a fishing pole and link of one of the natives and I think the only one in town and stood on the bank with no hope of taking fish but of passing away time. Presently a most glorious nibble and I jerked a fine fish out of the water and landed him safely on the bank. The natives gathered round watching every movement. Pretty soon another more glorious nibble still, and out came a fish weighing I should think not far from 16 pounds. But he landed on a slippery part of the bank and slid into the river. Then such a bawling and splashing as three of them Jumped into the river hoping to seize him. But all was in vain he was off and was never seen again. He was large, fat and beautiful when on the bank; but when in the river and out of sight we concluded that "he was not so very fat after all." After along day the night came on, and I was to be the defender of three ladies. The only weapon of defence I could get was a gallon demijohn which I filled with cold water, resolving if we were attacked I would scald our enemies. But we passed the night in safety, being attacked only by bugs, fleas, spiders and bugs and the morning came. Another long, hot and oppressive day was before us. Mrs. Grenell was worrying about her husband. And none of us were without concern on account of our missing companions. The day passed. Hundreds of times during the day we cast anxious glances toward the river. The evening came we waited late before retiring. At last we reluctantly went to rest and just after we retired heard the sound of their well known voices. Then were we glad; and slept but little on account of excess joy. These three sheets will make as much of a letter as can be sent for simple postage; and I now bring it to a close. You shall have another letter (when I cannot now say) with a continuation of our journey. We are now over the worst of our journey and we laugh at the hardships of the past. I have been remarkably well ever since we left home. And it would be difficult for me to believe that any two persons could enjoy this toilsome and exceedingly unpleasant journey. This day is the first of July. Yesterday I preached to a large and attentive audience. The particulars of our meetings you shall have hereafter. We are now comfortably situated- And we feel in duty bound to render our most sincere thanks to the Author of all good who has thus far preserved us and so signally blessed us. For you my dear Parents we send much love. We often think of you and oh how would we rejoice to see you now. We often, very often exclaim how rejoiced we should be to pass a day among our mends provided we could be in Panama on the succeeding day. We are bound to California and though we would love to see the mends who are so dear to us; yet we would not allow even that to prevent us from proceeding on our journey with all possible dispatch. To Rosalie, Ann and family, Charlie, Eliza, Henry, Susan, Margaret and all we send much love. Remember me affectionately to Father and Mother Rowell, and all the family. A kind remembrance to Brethren Bryan, King, Rhoda, Sis. Luxbury and family and all those mends too numerous to mention.
Believe me dear Parents.
Your very devoted and affectionate Son. F. E. Prevaux-
I leave this space for Lydia to say a word-
Dear Parents, Frank has written the particulars as far as he has proceeded, and has not left room for me to relate any great event. I can only say that crossing the isthmus is no small matter at any time, and we came across at as bad time as could well be imagined. We thought it very hard to be obliged to stop, at Gattoon two days and three nights, but we have since been very thankful; for the second night we were there the river rose fifteen feet and was filled with drift wood, the current being so strong that it was almost impossible to resist it. Those who were on the river that night and the next day were in great danger, but before we were permitted to proceed the danger was over. We have great reason to thank God for his infinite goodness to us. We have neither of us been sick, and we bear the heat quite well. Yet there is a something in this climate which makes one so weak and lazy that the slightest exertion is a burden. I have never regretted leaving home with my dear husband, but I have often wished we were in California. With much love to all friends. Your affectionate daughter.
Lydia